![]() ![]() Say we try the shutter at 30th with that much of a drastic change in shutter, you’ll see a difference in your exposure to make sure you don’t overexpose the back. Meaning, if at ISO 100, f8 shutter speed 250th, we get a great light on the subject with the flash but a black background, we can then slow it down while paying attention to our meter in-camera to get that ambient light closer to being on exposure. When we slow the shutter speed down, you allow more time for that ambient light to come into play. So now how do we balance? We still have the shutter speed. ![]() Now you’re back to where you started on auto, with the subject exposed correctly. Once you’ve decided what your aperture should be, you can tell the flash that’s the exposure you want for the situation, along with what ISO setting you’ve settled on for the shot. For example, typically for a portrait, we want just someone’s face in sharp focus and the background to go soft. Therefore, figure out how much of the frame you want to appear sharp. That’s a huge weight on what the style of your image will be. Aperture also dictates our depth of field, which is how much of our frame is in focus. Aperture settings can dictate the exposure of the flash if it’s set to a consistent power setting.įor example, if the flash is set to 1/2 power at 100 ISO and your correct exposure seems to be f8, then at f11 at 1/2 power would look underexposed, and at f5.6 at 1/2 power would appear to be overexposed. Your flash only exists for milliseconds, but your ambient light exists constantly (for the most part). To gain more control over our exposure and bring in some of the ambient light in to balance out the exposure - and to balance with what that flash is doing - let’s us switch out of auto and take over more with manual. “Correct exposure” and “style” are two different things. Sounds right, so why is the frame still not ideal?Ī shot can be “correct” but that doesn’t make it what you want. Your camera tells the flash “I am set for this exposure,” and the flash regulates its power to coordinate with that. Well your gear isn’t wrong - it just has no idea what your style is! In this case, your camera and flash are working together to only get the right exposure for the subject, not the environment. More from Adorama: 16 Fast Accessories for Speedlights But you put it on auto, right? You spent a ton of money of the equipment, so what’s going on? ![]() More often than not, we pop the flash and and end up with a severely underexposed background, ending up with just a black void behind the subject, as if it was an open space with not much for the flash to expose. Aside from the light emitted from the flash, we also have the existing light in the environment or what we call available or ambient light. A Speedlight is usually your first step towards creating your own light for an exposure, but just because you have one doesn’t mean it’s the only light in your shot. ![]()
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